
The history
of the stone that was eventually named the Hope diamond began when the
French merchant traveller,
Jean
Baptiste Tavernier, purchased a 112 3/16-carat diamond. This diamond,
which was most likely from the Kollur mine in Golconda, India, was
somewhat triangular in shape and crudely cut. Its color was described by
Tavernier as a "beautiful violet.".
Tavernier
sold the diamond to King Louis XIV of France in 1668 with 14 other large
diamonds and several smaller ones. In 1673 the stone was recut by Sieur
Pitau, the court jeweler, resulting in a 67 1/8-carat stone. In the royal
inventories, its color was described as an intense steely-blue and the
stone became known as the "Blue Diamond of the Crown," or the "French
Blue." It was set in gold and suspended on a neck ribbon that the king
wore on ceremonial occasions.
King Louis
XV, in 1749, had the stone reset by court jeweler Andre Jacquemin, in a
piece of ceremonial jewelry for the Order of the Golden Fleece (Toison
D'Or). In 1791, after an attempt by Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette to flee
France, the jewels of the French Royal Treasury were turned over to the
government. During a week-long looting of the crown jewels in September of
1792, the French Blue diamond was stolen.
In 1812 a
deep blue diamond described by John Francillion as weighing 177 grains (4
grains = 1 carat) was documented as being in the possession of London
diamond merchant, Daniel Eliason. Strong evidence indicates that the stone
was acquired by King George IV of England. At his death, in 1830, the
king's debts were so enormous that the blue diamond was likely sold
through private channels.
The first
reference to the diamond's next owner is found in the 1839 entry of the
gem collection catalog of the well-known Henry Philip Hope, the man from
whom the diamond takes its name. Unfortunately, the catalog does not
reveal where or from whom Hope acquired the diamond or how much he paid
for it.
Following
the death of Henry Philip Hope in 1839, and after much litigation, the
diamond passed to his nephew Henry Thomas Hope and ultimately to the
nephew's grandson Lord Francis Hope. In 1902 Lord Francis Hope obtained
permission from the Court of Chancery and his sisters to sell the stone to
help pay off his debts. It was sold to a London dealer who quickly sold it
to Joseph Frankels and Sons of New York City, who retained the stone in
New York until they, in turn, needed cash. The diamond was next sold to
Selim Habib who put it up for auction in Paris in 1909. It did not sell at
the auction but was sold soon after to C.H. Rosenau and then resold to
Pierre Cartier that same year.
In 1910 the Hope
diamond was shown to Mrs. Evalyn Walsh McLean, of Washington D.C., at
Cartier's while on her honeymoon in Paris, but she did not like the
setting. Cartier had the diamond reset and took it to the U.S. where he
left it with Mrs. McLean for a weekend. This strategy was successful. The
sale was made in 1912 with the diamond mounted as a headpiece on a
three-tiered circlet of large white diamonds. Sometime later it became the
pendant on a diamond necklace as we know it today.
Mrs. McLean's flamboyant ownership of the stone lasted until her death in
1947.
Harry
Winston Inc. of New York City purchased Mrs. McLean's entire jewelry
collection, including the Hope diamond, from her estate in 1949. This
collection also included the 94.8-carat Star of the East diamond, the
15-carat Star of the South diamond, a 9-carat green diamond, and a
31-carat diamond that is now called the McLean diamond.
For the
next 10 years the Hope diamond was shown at many exhibits and charitable
events world wide by Harry Winston Inc., including as the central
attraction of their Court of Jewels exhibition. On November 10, 1958, they
donated the Hope diamond to the Smithsonian Institution, and almost
immediately the great blue stone became its premier attraction.
The Hope
diamond has left the Smithsonian only four times since it was donated. In
1962 it was exhibited for a month at the Louvre in Paris, France, as part
of an exhibit entitled Ten Centuries of French Jewelry. In 1965 the Hope
diamond traveled to South Africa where it was exhibited at the Rand Easter
Show in Johannesburg. In 1984 the diamond was lent to Harry Winston Inc.,
in New York, as part of the firm's 50th anniversary celebration. In 1996
the Hope diamond was again sent to Harry Winston Inc., in New York, this
time for cleaning and some minor restoration work.
The weight
of the Hope diamond for many years was reported to be 44.5 carats. In 1974
it was removed from its setting and found actually to weigh 45.52 carats.
It is classified as a type IIb diamond, which are semiconductive and
usually phosphoresce. The Hope diamond phosphoresces a strong red color,
which will last for several seconds after exposure to short wave
ultra-violet light. The diamond's blue coloration is attributed to trace
amounts of boron in the stone.
In the
pendant surrounding the Hope diamond are 16 white diamonds, both
pear-shapes and cushion cuts. A bail is soldered to the pendant where Mrs.
McLean would often attach other diamonds including the McLean diamond and
the Star of the East. The necklace chain contains 45 white diamonds.
In December
of 1988, a team from the Gemological Institute of America visited the
Smithsonian to grade the great blue stone according to present day
techniques. They observed that the gem shows evidence of wear, has a
remarkably strong phosphorescence, and that its clarity is slightly
affected by a whitish graining that is common to blue diamonds. They
described the color as fancy dark grayish-blue. In 1996, after another
examination they described the color as fancy deep grayish-blue. An
examination on the same day in 1988 by another gemologist using a very
sensitive colorimeter revealed that there is a very slight violet
component to the deep blue color which is imperceptible to the naked eye.
Still, one can only wonder that the original 112 3/16-carat stone bought
by Tavernier was described as "un beau violet" (a beautiful violet).